Madrid – Guadalupe – Trujillo – Caceres – Merida – Seville
The drive from Madrid to Seville takes us through the Extremadura Region. Extremadura is off the main tourist route in Spain, but it proves to be a wonderful road trip experience.
With a history going back to Roman settlements, it was once ruled by the Moors and is the home of the Conquistadors and UNESCO Heritage cities.
Being over our jet lag (but recovering from sampling dry sherry and Spanish wines) we left Madrid for a road trip to Seville through the Extremadura Region which included Guadaloupe, Trujillo, Caceres, and Marida. John kept a look for the famous black Ibérico pigs. And I took 19 photos of these black pigs which made him very happy.
A more recent blog post Visit Seville & Cordoba – Andalucía, Spain focuses on the cultural legacy of the Moors in Andalucía.
According to John, we planned the trip through Extremadura Spain for the history and the culture of Spain, but in reality, as it turns out, we went for the famous jamón ibérico puro de bellota (Iberico Ham) which is produced from the black Ibérico pigs that roam free in the countryside and feed on the fresh acorns. According to John, the ham is worth the trip.
We planned ahead finding great hotels en route using Booking.com, check the site by using the link.
[Please note most of our blog posts contain some affiliate links. This means we may receive a small commission if you make a purchase after visiting any of these links within the blog post.]
Madrid – Central City Map
https://www.esmadrid.com/en/tourist-areas-map
Madrid
Our first stop in Spain was Madrid were we spent a couple of days exploring the enchantment of the city including The Prado, numerous Tapas Bars, the Royal Palace, and a City Tour.
Boomer Alert: We recommend taking a city bus tour soon after you arrive, taking it easy especially with jet lag and to get use to new cities or reacquaint yourselves with places you visited before. We have used the Big Bus Tours in Madrid (and other cities) as we travel and we found them reliable, informative, and clean. Use this link to take you to the English version Big Bus Tours. For Boomers the bus tour is a great way to ease into a few days of exploration.
The Prado Museum
The Prado has collections of the great masters of art including Goya, Velázquez, Rubens, El Greco, and Bosch.
Some of our favorite paintings at the Prado Museum:
The Garden Of Earthly Delights
Hieronymus Bosch
The Feast of Bacchus
Diego Velázquez
May 3rd 1808 Executions
Francisco de Goya
One art museum we regret we didn’t visit when we visited Madrid on seeing is the one dedicated to Joaquín Sorolla. Next time!
The Sorolla Museum is a single-artist museum in Madrid, Spain, devoted to the work and life of Joaquín Sorolla and the members of his family, such as his daughter Elena.
Address: P.º del Gral. Martínez Campos, 37, Chamberí, 28010 Madrid, Spain
Phone: +34 913 10 15 84
Tapas in Madrid
What are Tapas?
Tapas are small plates of food that are very common in Spanish cuisine. Traditionally, these might have been simple dishes of cured meats, bread, cheese, or seafood. The word Tapas comes from the Spanish word meaning ‘to cover’ or ‘lid’ and may refer to how people would use the small plates to cover drinks from the flies in the bars. But most people know Tapas as wonderful samples of the different food served in each establishment.
Our hotel was close to the Barrio de Las Letras which has 4 classic Tapas Bars / Restaurants all worth checking out:
Casa Toni: Comfortable spot for seafood and a variety of meat tapas.
El Lacon: Known for tapas and paella and a good wine list.
Casa González: Almost 100 years old, a hybrid type of place selling gourmet delicatessen products (cheeses, wines, and jarred foods) with some wonderful tapas.
Casa Alberto: An old historic bar and restaurant going back to 1827 with a warm atmosphere. Classic tapas, seafood & meat, plus house-made vermouth!
Casa Alberto is our favorite Tapas bar (and worthy of two visits during our brief stay).
[Please note for full transparency some of our blog posts contain Affiliate Links. This means we may receive a small commission if you make a purchase after visiting any of these links within the blog post.]
Other Must See Places in Madrid
Royal Palace and Almudena Cathedral
Royal Palace and Almudena Cathedral:
Explore the grand halls of the official residence of the Spanish Royal Family. The nearby Almudena Cathedral is also worth a visit.
Boomer Alert : Both sites are generally accessible with elevators available.
Viator offers tours of the Royal Palace https://viator.tpk.ro/rin51anE, and skipping the line, check it out.
Plaza Mayor & Puerta del Sol
Wander through Plaza Mayor, a magnificent arcaded square, and then head to Puerta del Sol, the bustling, central square with the famous “Bear and the Strawberry Tree” statue and Kilometre Zero plaque.
Boomer Alert: Both are flat, easily walkable, and great for people-watching.
Tablao Flamenco in Madrid
There are many shows to choose from, we chose the Cardamomo Flamenco and we were delighted with our choice.
Here is the link to the English Website for Cardamono Flamenco.
It’s a small intimate performance with vibrant performers, great fun and well organized.
You can buy tickets online at the website above.
Guadalupe
Madrid to Seville – first stop is Guadalupe, the first stage of our road trip through Extremadura Spain, was about a 3-hour drive on motorways (some with tolls, and the remainder across country.)
Royal Monastery of Santa María de Guadalupe
At the center of the Guadalupe village is the Royal Monastery of Santa María de Guadalupe (UNESCO World Heritage Site.) This monastery is one of Spain’s most popular tourist attractions and a place of pilgrimage, dating back to 1325. The story goes that a farmer finds a statue by St Luke of the Virgin Mary in his field. From then on, pilgrims would come to Guadalupe to witness the shrine within the monastery.
This old monastery is a beautiful piece of religious Spanish architecture with history of significance going back to 1492. Christopher Columbus was sponsored at the monastery from King Ferdinand and Queen Isabella after the Moors were banished from Spain and Christians took control.
Madrid to Seville – From Guadalupe we headed west to Trujillo and then on to Caceres.
Boomer Alert: Being off the foreign tourist route, many people do not speak English. Just be ready to “habla espanol”!
Madrid to Seville – Trujillo
The town of Trujillo started out as a Roman town with the name of Turgalium.
In the tenth century the Moors constructed a very strong Moorish castle in the town which was strategically located between Merida and Toledo.
Trujillo has a medieval fort “The Castillo” which sits atop a hill overlooking the town. There’s a statue in the main square (Plaza Mayor) of the conquistador Francisco Pizarro, the conqueror of the Inca empire.
Conquistador Francisco Pizarro
In addition to Pizarro other conquistadors were from Extremadura. Hernan Cortes conquered the Aztec empire, and Diego Parades, who fought the Incas and explored the Amazon. The Extremadua region of Spain benefited by the wealth these conquistadors brought back from the New World at the hands of its indigenous people. Any church you visit will be lined with silver, gold, and treasures “rescued” by these conquistadors.
As in many towns in Extremadura, Spain, Trujillo’s old buildings provide homes for a breeding population of storks.
The historical church of Santa María la Mayor de Trujillo is Late Romanesque style, built 13th century on the site of the Muslim Alhama mosque of Torgiela. It was at one time almost cathedral status on the catholic faith in Spain, but declined in influence and fell into disrepair after earthquakes in 1521 and 1755. It is a national monument since 1943.
We also found the church tower a great place to take photos of the beautiful town of Tujillo and the surrounding countryside.
Boomer Alert: The climb up the tower was a bit strenuous on my knees but it was worth the effort for the views.
Madrid to Seville – Cáceres- Extremadura
Cáceres, founded by the ancient Romans, is a wonderful collection of Roman, Gothic, Italian Renaissance, and Moorish architectures. The town is a medieval 12-century city, with narrow streets, fort-like houses and palaces and over 30 towers complete with nesting storks.
The Old Town of Cáceres is a World Heritage city from 1986 and definitely worth a trip.
Cáceres is part of the Vía de la Plata (“Silver Route”) path of the Camino de Santiago that crosses the west of the Iberian Peninsula in a north–south direction.
The Vía de La Plata (Silver Way) or Ruta de la Plata (Silver Route) is an ancient commercial and pilgrimage path that crosses the west of Spain from north to south.
The term Vía de la Plata is commonly thought to derive from the modern Spanish word for silver, plata. The name actually derives from the Arabic word al-balat, which means cobbled paving and described the road as engineered by the Romans.
The Camino de Santiago (in English the Way of St. James), is a network of pilgrims’ ways or pilgrimages to the shrine of the apostle St James in the cathedral of Santiago de Compostela in Galicia in northwestern Spain.
Where to Stay in Caceres
As usual we use Booking.com to research accommodation options in new places, this page on Booking.com focuses on the Extremadura Region
We found the Hotel NH Collection Cáceres Palacio de Oquendo in the Old Town of Caceres, we can recommend. There are plenty of hotels in the area.
Pza. San Juan 11, 10003, Caceres – Spain
It was on a neat part of town located on the Plaza San Juan and next door to great Tapas Restaurant Meson San Juan, but there are many tapas restaurants and bars with outdoor seating on the plaza.
The Taste of Favorite Tapas in Caceres
Migas is Spanish for bread crumbs, but that’s not the sole ingredient of ‘migas’ the dish. The stale bread pieces are soaked in water and mixed with anything from oil and spices to chorizo and eggs.
Tapas in Caceres : “Migas extremeñas” is the style of migas from the Extremadura.
What to See in Caceres Old Town
There is a long list of places in the Old Town to see (mainly religious churches and monasteries) along with museums so we suggest you check out the Wikipedia page .
We prefer to wander and discover as we go.
The Cathedral of Santa Maria was impressive, which includes the chapel of the Blázquez or Santísimo Cristo which contains the carving of the Black Christ of Cáceres, a 14th century Gothic crucifix.
Province of Caceres – Food & Drink
Extremadura is the second-largest wine producing region in Spain with more than 90,000 hectares of vineyards and 250 wineries.
The climate has hot and dry summers that run through the harvest, this produces bold, full-bodied wines with white wines making up 60% of the production.
The Extremadura red wines usually use Tempranillo and Cabernet Sauvignon.
Red wines tend to have big bold textures and experts claim they are excellent wines to drink with jamón ibérico.
Others say the best pairings with jamón ibérico are either manzanilla sherry or fino.
Cáceres is famous for its stews, roast meats (especially pork, lamb and game), fried breadcrumbs (migas), trout, pastries and honey.
Jamón Ibérico – Extremadura Spain
There is a farming ecosystem, unique to some of Spain (Extremadura) and some areas of Portugal.
This area is lush with various oak and olive trees which provide favorable conditions for the variety of plants on which the Iberian black pigs feed.
Any bar or restaurant in the area will be displaying their jamón ibérico proudly hanging in the window or over the bar.
Many will slice the ham in front of you and most tapas you order will include a jamón ibérico and olives (another staple in Extremadura).
Madrid to Seville – Boomer Alerts:
a)There is a significant difference between the two main types of Iberico ham.
Jamon Iberico is fed and the more famous Jamon Iberico de Bellota feeds of acorns. The cost difference between the two is at least twice as much. Be careful what you order and pay for.
b) The Spanish stay out late and eat late. Most restaurants, especially the top-end, don’t open in until 8 pm and stay open till about midnight. Spaniards eat typically, at about 10pm.
From Cáceres we were tempted to head west to see Badajoz for its Moorish architecture but, instead we decided to conserve time to drive due south to Merida.
It takes about an hour to Merida and another 2 hours to Seville.
The roads are very good and were very quiet when we traveled.
Madrid to Seville – Merida
Merida was settled by the Romans and their presence is everywhere in the city, including a Roman built-bridge still used today.
Augusta Emerita, also called Emerita Augusta was a Roman colony founded in 25 BC in present day Mérida, Spain. The city, one of the most important in Roman Hispania, was endowed with all the comforts of a large Roman city and served as capital of the Roman province of Lusitania. (Wikipedia)
There are plenty of interesting places and sites to see in Merida, we ran out of time and regret not staying overnight but had a paid for hotel in Seville.
Merida Main Sites to See
- The Theater: The theatre was built in 15 BC by Roman General, Marcus Vipsanius Agrippa. He also built the Pantheon in Rome and won numerous notable battles.
- The Amphitheater: From 8 BC, was use by gladiators and animal-staged hunts.
- The Circus: A long venue used for chariot races.
- The Bridge over the Guadiana: Over a ford in the river Guadiana, still in use today (see photo!)
- Los Milagros Aqueduct: From 1st century BC. Part of the of the water supply system brings in fresh water to Mérida from the Proserpina Dam 5 km from the city.
- Mithraeum House: Found by accident in the1960s, located on the southern slope of Mount San Albin and worth a visit. Beautiful residence possibly belonging to a priest from the temple complete with ornate stonework and mosaics.
- Los Columbarios: Roman funerary site dating back to 4th century BC complete with exquisite stonework and 2 well-preserved crypts.
Madrid to Seville
Seville – Overview
Seville, the capital and largest city in Andalusia was founded by the Romans and known for its beauty. We love the history, artwork, music, food, and of course, its people. It’s home to three UNESCO World Heritage Sites and worth spending some time here.
There is mix of architecture which combines the Islamic and the Catholic styles (called Mudejar).
Alcazar Palace
The Moors were defeated back in the 15th century after 500 years of rule, but the Catholics kept many beautiful buildings intact including the magnificent Alcazar Palace. The Alcazar is complete with extensive, sunken gardens to the most incredible, ornate, serrated arches and Moorish design anywhere.
Purchasing tickets ahead of time avoids long lines which may not allow access even by end of day. There are lines and it’s necessary, if you do book ahead of time, to be present at your stated time.
The Cathedral of Seville
The Cathedral is also known as the Cathedral de la Santa Maria de la Sede is the third largest church in the world.
It is built on a site of a Moorish Mosque, which was once used as a church, and subsequently rebuilt and completed in 1507.
See our other detailed post on Moors cultural legacy in Seville and Cordoba
Flamenco Shows in Seville
There are various Flamenco shows in the center of Seville. The El Arenal (Calle Rodo 7) is popular and conveniently located but check out the latest reviews. The shows are daily at 7.30pm and 9.30pm, entrance fee €39 (includes a drink).
The music and costumes are enchanting. Reminding us of one more reason that Spain’s culture and history are worth checking out.
Car Parking
We love Seville! It is a beautiful city with a lot of history and sights to see and historical stories to hear about. Like any city these days parking is an issue so it’s worthy of some prep work before you arrive. Check out the maps online and familiarize yourself with the city center parking options, preferably near your hotel.
Once you arrive we suggest taking Seville “Hop On Hop Off” bus tour of the city. I find it helps orientate myself where the main areas and sights are.There is a lot to cover in Seville.
Boomer Alert: Familiarize yourself with the City Layout, and check out Parking garage locations, and if you are staying in the old part of the city, you will need to carry or pull your luggage to the hotel, so pack light.
Boomer Alert: Seville has extremely hot summer months May through September and should be avoided if possible. If you cannot avoid at least be prepared and plan your visit accordingly. Temperatures above 40 °C (104 °F) are not uncommon in summer. (Some shops and restaurants close in August. The owners and staff leave the heat of the city and head to the beach.
We found a boutique hotel with Bookings.com section on Seville,in the old part of the city in what was in the area of Jewish Quarter. It is close to the center for easy access to two main attractions the Cathedral of Saint Mary of the See and the Real Alcázar de Sevilla.
The Giralda, built by the Almohads as a minaret to the Great Mosque of Seville. It is now the bell tower of the cathedral.
Photo by Emilio J. Rodríguez Posada
Boomer Alerts: Like at any popular tourist attractions, Seville has a reputation for scammers and pickpockets. This is a problem especially in the area around the main tourist sights, so be on your guard for these potential scams:
- The most popular scam in Spain near religious sites is for “local women” to offer you a sprig of rosemary. If you take it, they plead for a donation or gift, don’t accept or receive anything offered.
- Another scam is “local people” asking you to take their photo. When you hand the camera back it’s dropped and broken and you are blamed, money is requested
- Do not buy tickets on the street for special city attractions or a Flamenco show. They are likely to be fake tickets, better to pay at the event or source
Cathedral de la Santa Maria de la Sede
Seville Cathedral, is a Roman Catholic cathedral in Seville, Andalusia, SpainThe cathedral is amazing and takes hours to do it justice as the church contains a number of important tombs. This includes one of the two claimed burial places of Christopher Columbus, as well as many important artworks, including the largest altarpiece in Spain.
See more photos and information in our recent post Visit Seville & Cordoba – Andalucia Spain
Real Alcázar de Sevilla
The Real Alcázar de Sevilla is the Royal Palace of Seville. The name ‘Alcazar‘ means castle in Spanish and is derived from the Arabic word al-qasr (fortress or palace). The complex of palaces is in the Mudéjar style, which is a architectural style with many influences from Moorish and Christian culture.
Other Things to Do in Seville
- Flamenco Show: As we are not dance experts we read about the latest reviews of Flamenco shows and picked a popular one close to our hotel El Arenal .
- BullFight: It’s not our thing but if you wish to see a bullfight check out the schedule at this website and order tickets well in advance
- Food and Wine Tours: We missed out on these when visiting but they seem popular check out Seville Food Sherpas
- Walking Tours: if you are up to it there are various walking tours to consider e.g. https://sevillawalkingtours.com/
Madrid to Seville – Trivia
The Osborne bull
When driving through Spain you will occasionally see a large silhouette of a large bull on the horizon or by the highway. These are known as the “Osborne Bulls”.
When billboards were banned in Spain, these bulls were advertising brandy, and were painted with the name of Veterano Osborne brandy. The company removed the words and successfully fought to have the enormous bulls considered art.
The approach was a success, and today, more than six decades after it debuted, the “Osborne bull” has become an iconic emblem of Spain. And the bull owes part of that success to a family of blacksmiths that has been taking care of the billboards since the 1960s.
Since the 1960s, the Tejadas, who own a small blacksmith shop in El Puerto de Santa María, have installed and repaired the Osborne bulls throughout Spain.
Return to Blog Posts or Index / Contents Page
Leave a Reply