Introduction
We are planning an 8-day visit to the island of Sicily (part of Italy!! Si, magnifico!) for the first time in late September this year.
This travel blog post details how we decided on an itinerary and how we are planning the other elements of the trip and updating our progress over the next few months.
This information may help others that are thinking of visiting Sicily in the near future. Hopefully other readers with a broader knowledge of South East Sicily are welcome to contribute their thoughts and advice (in the comments section below) as we proceed.
We enjoy traveling independently and arranging our own travel schedule and itinerary based our research and the time and budget that’s available.
Our starting point was deciding on Sicily as our destination which took many hours of discussion. Lynn wanted to go back to Italy and stay a week in Tuscany visiting small towns and drinking espresso watching Italian life go by. I, being a lover of all things Greek, was pulled to Sicily for the Mediterranean and North African feel. We are hoping to get the best of both worlds. We decided on 8 days which is enough time to see things without all the plants at home dying. September is a favorite month to travel — kids are back in school, tourist season is waning, pace is slower, and the Mediterranean Sea is still warm.
Being in our early seventies we plan on a relaxed pace to enjoy and experience the culture of Sicily–its food and wine, its history, sights, all with a little and beach time. We extablished a comfortable budget and Lynn immediately sent for a set of Pimsler’s Italian language CDs. So far, all she can say “Scusi, non capisco Italiano.”
Selected Itinerary – South East Sicily
We realize we couldn’t see the whole island in 8 days without being exhausted so we decided to focus on South East Sicily with the following itinerary (we have more info on choosin this other areas / regions below):
- 3 Nights in Noto which will provide a beautiful Baroque base to explore Val di Noto and also time to relax on a choice of fine beaches.
- 2 Nights in Ortigia / Siracusa which will allow us to wander in the historic streets of Ortigia.
- 2 Nights in Cefalu which should be an enjoyable drive to the north coast with Mt. Etna on right hand side. We plan to visit the Villa Romana del Casale en route and Don Cicco’s abandoned villa from The Godfather 2 movie.
Flights from USA to Sicily, Italy
Direct Routes and Airlines
New York (JFK/EWR) to Palermo (PMO): Seasonal or charter options like Neos Air provide additional direct connections
New York JFK to Catania (CTA): Operated by Delta Air Lines with daily seasonal service running April through October.
Newark Liberty (EWR) to Palermo (PMO): Operated by United Airlines multiple times per week through September.
Direct from NYC is an expensive route, so we originally chose the lowest cost option Neos Air direct to Palermo.
Unfortunately were advised a few days ago that the Neos flight was cancelled, and the alternative options provided were not acceptable, hopefully we will get a full refund. We are now booked on Swiss Airlines flying out JFK with a short stop in Zurich.
Desk Research on Sicily – Learning About the Island
Brief History
- Greek/Carthaginian Period (c. 8th – 3rd Century BC): Various Greek city-states, including Syracuse, competed with Carthage for control.
- Roman Period (227 BC – 468 AD): Sicily became Rome’s first province
- Islamic Emirate (827–1060 AD): Arabs from North Africa conquered the island.
- Spanish, Savoy, and Bourbon Rule (1516–1861)
- House of Bourbon (1735–1816): Charles of Bourbon and his son Ferdinand.
- House of Bourbon-Two Sicilies (1816–1861): Kingdom of the Two Sicilies established,
- Sicily was annexed 1861 into the unified Kingdom of Italy
Geography
Sicily is the largest island in the Mediterranean Sea, with mountainous terrain, and intense volcanic activity. It is separated from mainland Italy by the 2-mile-wide Strait of Messina.
Local Customs / Traditions
- Afternoon Closures: Most non-restaurant shops observe a standard rest period (siesta) roughly between 1:00 PM and 5:00 PM.
- Late Dining: Restaurants rarely open for dinner before 7:30 PM, and locals typically sit down to eat around 9:00 PM or later.
- Granita and Brioche: A traditional breakfast ritual of almond or fruit ice served with soft sweet bread.
Street Markets: Bustling open-air markets in cities like Palermo reflecting historic Arab-Mediterranean trading roots.
Climate
July and August are the months to be avoided if possible due to the intense heat and the crowds of tourists and locals. The shoulder months of May / June and September / October offer the ideal combination of pleasant temperatures with fewer crowds. September offers some relief to summer’s heat with restaurants and markets remaining lively, and the sea is still warm enough for a swim.
Driving
We like to drive so we can explore on whim and at our own pace. In Sicily it is noted that local traffic is famously fast, aggressive, and chaotic in major cities. This sounds like a lot like our experiences in Greece (see our post Road Trip in Peloponnese, Greece). Key challenges in Sicily / Italy include navigating ZTL restricted zones, narrow historic streets, and assertive local driving habits.
ZTL Zones: These are Zona a Traffico Limitato (Limited Traffic Zones) in the cities monitored by hidden cameras that issue expensive fines to unauthorized vehicles.
When renting select a compact car – Its strongly recommended to rent a small vehicle to easily navigate narrow medieval streets and tight parking spots found in most historic town centers.
Rental Cars
We have reserved a small compact car rental car from Booking.com and invested in Insurance Coverage with Travel Guard.
It’s a great idea to take photos of the car when you collect it.
Boomer Alert: You will likely need an International Driving License in addition to your standard driving license when you collect the car. You can get an International Driving License through AAA.
How the Sicily tourism office describes the highlights of different locations in the west and east for visitors.
Based on various sources, a trip to Sicily requires a “strategic decision” between exploring the East Coast, the West Coast, or taking a comprehensive two-week road trip around the entire island.
It seems people underestimate the size of Sicily and first-time visitors frequently misjudge the driving times and distances between regional highlights, as we always try to do too much when we travel we need to be selective.
Sicily: Selecting Your Region & Itinerary Focus
Here is a brief suggestion of traveling the different regions and how the trip could be split:
- 7-10 Days (The East Coast Classic): Best for a first-time mix of history, luxury, and nature. Base yourself in the coastal, historic island of Ortigia (Siracusa) to explore the ancient Greek ruins. There’s an opportunity to visit the Baroque towns of the Val di Noto (Ragusa, Modica, and Noto), and / or traveling up the Eastern Coast through Siracusa, Taormina, and Cefalù.
- 7-10 Days (The West Coast & Culture): Best for street food enthusiasts and beach lovers. Fly into the capital city of Palermo. Spend a few days exploring its famous Arab-Norman architecture and street markets before traveling west to the historic port town of Trapani. From Trapani, take easy day trips to the medieval hilltop village of Erice, the ancient ruins of Segesta, or hop on a ferry to the crystal-clear waters of Favignana island.
Noto: Val di Noto
Key Destinations (South East Sicily)
Noto: Described by Rick Steves as the “capital” of Sicilian Baroque architecture, “featuring an elegant, consistent aesthetic thanks to the limestone used in its 18th-century reconstruction”.
- Ragusa: A scenic, dramatic hill town featuring the UNESCO-listed, two-part city design, with incredible views and dining.
- Modica: Famous for its distinctive, ancient-recipe Sicilian chocolate and steep, Baroque streets.
- Scicli: A less-crowded, beautiful, valley-based baroque village perfect for exploring.
Boomer Alert: from what I have read most of the villages (like Ragusa) include steep walkways and lots of steps among their narrow streets, so leave flip flops and stilettos at the hotel. “Ragusa Ibla & Modica: Both villages are built on severe slopes and deep ravines, relying heavily on long multi-level staircases rather than flat paths. Visitors often use local tourist shuttle trains (trenino) to bypass the steep climbs.”
From all the descriptions of the South East corner of Sicily offers what we like about traveling, a mix of different experiences:
- UNESCO World Heritage towns filled with Baroque architecture
- Ancient Greek and Roman history
- Coastal villages and beautiful beaches
- Authentic Sicilian food and local wines
- Short driving distances between cities and places of interest
- Generally a more relaxed atmosphere than some of Sicily’s larger tourist centers
We use a number of internet sites to check out accommodation choices in our planning, we generally use Booking.com, Expedia, Hotels.com, and Trip Advisor to compare prices and availability. Always read all comments and reviews.
We have booked 3 nights in San Carlos Suites in downtown Noto, for its convenient location and positive reviews.
Boomer Alert: Be careful in selecting the location of a hotel so you are aware of the ZTL Zone restrictions and where the nearest parking garage is located. San Carlos Suites is on a pedestrian street and a ZTL Zone, so we will advise the hotel of our rental car registration plate # so they can advise police and park in a nearby garage 8 min walk from hotel.
Parking Options & Costs (2026):
- Private Parking (Nearby): Available upon request, costing approximately EUR 15/day.
- Public Parking (Free): Free, on-street parking exists in the vicinity, specifically around Via Napoli, a 5-7 minute walk away.
- Availability: Parking is limited, and it is highly recommended to book a spot in advance if offered by the hotel, particularly due to the location in a restricted area (ZTL).
Beaches near Noto
Golden Hour & Churches in Noto
In our research, we found that the end of September is one of the best times to experience Noto because the late afternoon sun transforms the town’s limestone buildings into a golden, glowing landscape. Note: apparently the best views of this golden hour can be seen from several of the church towers in the city, which probably give great views any time of day.
Church of San Carlo al Corso Bell Tower It offers an elevated panoramic view over the town’s golden-hued rooftops and a perfect vantage point of the cathedral.
Noto Cathedral Steps (Cattedrale di San Nicolò)
The facade of this massive cathedral faces the setting sun. Sitting on the wide, historic staircase while the limestone glows pink and gold is described as “a quintessential Noto experience”.
Church of Santa Chiara Terrace They charge a small fee to access the rooftop terrace. It supposedly provides a magnificent side view of the Cathedral and the main street, Corso Vittorio Emanuele
Roman Villa of Tellaro
The Roman Villa of Tellaro is a smaller archaeological site than the famous Villa del Casale in Piazza Armerina. Located just a few kilometers from Noto, the 4th-century AD villa claims some of the finest polychrome mosaics in the world.
Eating in Noto
Here’s where we would appreciate any advice and comments from other people’s experience — where are best places to eat in Noto?
We have compared list of reviews and comments and listed the ones that look good and that are in walking distant from the San Carlos Suites, we welcome comments and other suggestions.
Trattoria La Carretteria:Â A popular spot for, local wine and traditional plates like tuna caponata and grilled swordfish
Retablo Italian, Seafood
L’Assiette Baroque Italian, Mediterranean
Nachè Italian, Seafood
Ortigia / Siracusa
Here we have reservations on the island of Ortigia at Loggiato Verga Luxury by Bed&Bros and will need to alert the hotel of our rental car registration # for info to the ZTL and park 10 minutes away.
The hotel location looks perfect to walk around Ortigia to see the sights:
- Historic Landmarks & Architecture
- Syracuse Cathedral (Duomo): A grand church built right over an ancient Greek temple of Athena, with original large stone columns still visible inside and outside.
- Temple of Apollo: The oldest Doric temple ruin in Sicily, located right near the entrance of the island after crossing the bridge.
- Castello Maniace: An historic 13th-century castle at the very southern tip of the island offering wide views of the sea.
- Nature & Public Spaces
- Fountain of Arethusa: A peaceful coastal freshwater pool famous for growing wild papyrus plants.
- Fountain of Diana: A detailed stone statue of the hunting goddess located in the lively Piazza di Archimede.
- Ortigia Market (Mercato di Ortigia): A busy local street market open Monday through Saturday filled with fresh fish, fruit, and famous local sandwich stops like Caseificio Borderi.
- Coastal Views & Walking
- Lungomare: The scenic walking path all around the edge of the island where you can look out at the blue water.
- Solarium Forte Vigliena: A popular wooden platform built over the rocks where people sunbathe and swim in the sea
Eating in Ortigia
As in Noto any suggestions of where we should eat are welcome. We are not looking for any place too grand / too expensive or over touristy, as we prefer restaurants that are relaxed, that serve quality seafood and are good value for money. I am in search of the best Spaghetti con le Sarde, Lynn likes Swordfish and Shrimp.
These are two I already noted but welcome comments and suggestions.
Cod da Saretta €10–20 Restaurant
The Vibe: Informal, charming, and off the beaten track on the east side of the island.
- What to Order: Outstanding Spaghetti con le Sarde and incredibly fresh steamed mussels (Zuppa di Cozze). It offers massive portions and excellent value.
Ortigia Fish Bar €20–30 Restaurant
The Vibe: Casual, unpretentious local staple with an authentic and warm ambiance.
- What to Order: Their lightly steam-fried mixed seafood platter (Frittura di Gamberi, Calamari e Sarde) and tender octopus salad.
Sightseeing in Siracusa and Ortigia
We have already booked a 2 Hour Tuk Tuk to.ur of Siracusa and Ortigia with Get Your Guide, which has good reviews and will help us orientate ourselves. The Tuk Tuk collects & drops us at our hotel.
Itinerary of Tuk Tuk Tour – Siracusa and Ortigia
Starting/pickup location
- Cathedral of Syracuse Break time, Visit (20 minutes)
- Arethusa Spring Visit (10 minutes)
- Castello Maniace Photo stop (15 minutes)
- Temple of Apollo, Syracuse Photo stop (10 minutes)
- Piazza Archimede Photo stop (5 minutes)
- Chiesa di San Filippo Apostolo Photo stop (5 minutes)
- Basilica Santuario Madonna delle Lacrime Visit (15 minutes)
- Basilica of Saint Lucia ‘al Sepolcro’Visit (15 minutes)
- Chiesa di San Giovanni alle Catacombe (San Giovanni e San Marziano) Photo stop (5 minutes)
- Neapolis Archaeological Park of Syracuse Visit (1 hour) Extra fee
Drive from Ortigia to Cefalu
On our way back from the South East Sicily to the North to Cefalu there are two places we aim to visit en route:
The Villa Romana del Casale which is a large and elaborate Roman villa or palace located about 3 km from the town of Piazza Armerina.
Wikipedia has a great write up on the Villa and its mosaics.
Don Ciccio’s villa in The Godfather Part II is the real-life abandoned building located in Acireale (near Pozzillo).
Photographing Mt. Etna
Hopefully we can take some good photos of Mt. Etna as we drive across the island. Research tells us these are two prime vantage points:
- Agira (A19 Highway Rest Stop): Located between Enna and Catenanuova, the Autogrill here provides a sweeping, elevated look across the valley toward the volcano
- Catania Plain (Piana di Catania): Driving south on the E45 past Catania, the road flattens out, providing uninterrupted, wide-angle landscape shots of the volcano rising in the background.
Cefalu
In Cefalu we are staying on the seafront at the Cefalù Sea Palace which looks comfortable and ideal place to relax and hopefully enjoy the sunshine and sunsets.
- Prime Location: Situated right across from the beach and only a 10–15 minute walk from Cefalù’s historic old town.
- Rooms: Highly praised for being clean, bright, and very spacious.
- Breakfast & Views: The buffet breakfast is extensive, and the rooftop offers stunning views of the bay.
- Perks: Free private parking and complimentary sun loungers/umbrellas on the private beach are major pluses.
Cefalù is described as a “picturesque coastal resort town” and is located on the Tyrrhenian coast about 70 km (43 miles) east of Palermo.
The main attraction in Cefalu is UNESCO Cefalù Cathedral (Duomo) which is a 12th-century Norman cathedral with majestic twin towers and glittering interior mosaics including Christ Pantocrator.
Cefalu is a popular resort and there is wide choice of restaurants. At this stage we have not reviewed any in detail so will wait until we meander through the town, unless you have any suggestions!
Summary – Local Guide Tips for your Trip to Sicily
1. Don’t expect to visit the whole island in one trip. Choose your route and have base towns so you do more day trips.
2. Plan your beach day ahead of time. Check parking info, prices for Lido ( beach rentals etc) and also how to get to certain beaches.
3. Don’t forget your International Driver’s Permit in order to rent a car.
4. Don’t visit just the popular spots, visit local off the beat towns. Ask local for suggestions on best beaches, sunset spots etc.
5. Bring cash! Many smaller towns don’t take cards so make sure you have some cash.
6. Always choose pay in Euros when prompted during purchases.
7. Get lost. Let go of the itinerary and enjoy exploring, relaxing and taking it slow.
8. Have gelato or granita every day!
9. Double check tours and experiences for availability ahead of time as things get booked up fast.
10. Don’t trust Google Maps for business hours
Buon viaggio!
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